Punches and sight glasses

I was able to acquire a used greenlee 1-1/4″ chassis punch for a good price on ebay.  This is the largest and most expensive punch used for the the heating elements.  The 13/16″ chassis and 1/2″ conduit punch were purchased new from all-spec.com.  I also back decided to go back to sight glasses so I don’t have to remove the lids to check volumes.  You could use a step bit to make these holes but due to the quantity I need to create I think it is worth the investment.  I will likely sell them after I am done using them.

punch2

sight_glass

 

ebay.com
1x 1-1/4″ 730BB Chassis/Radio Punch (Heating elements)

all-spec.com
1x 13/16″ 730BB Chassis/Radio Punch (1/2″ Plumbing)
1x 1/2″ Conduit Slugbuster (Pannel buttons & switches)

brewhardware.com
3x 20″ Weldless sight glass kit for pots
3x Additional numbers 16-25 gallon + 1/2 gallon marks
1x Tube cutter
1x Sight glass cleaning brush

Whoops… false bottom surgery

I made a poor assumption that the 18″x19″ concord kettles that look identical to the spike 18″x19″ kettles would be the same dimensions.   I should have measured… thankfully it was too large and a few minutes with a dremel fixed it right up.  I made a cardboard template and used that to mark the excess I needed to remove.  A few (5) cut off disks later  and I am back in business.  I really like this false bottom.  Jaybird makes a great product and he can cut them to a custom sizes if you provide that information.  The welded on stand in the new design is very nice and acts as a secondary filter.

false_fix

Last of the bulkheads and a dip tube for the MLT

After looking at using the high flow 90 degree bulkheads for dip tubes I have decided to use them for everything but the dip tube in the MLT.  In order to assure clearance with my false bottom I am using a 5/8″ compression fitting bulkhead with 5/8″ dip tube.  The dip tube will be easier to cut to size then the high flow 90 and the 5/8″ size will make sure I don’t have any restrictions in the critical area before the wort pump.

mlt_dip

 

brewhardware.com
2x 1/2″ High flow 90 degree bulkheads
1x 5/8″ Compression bulkhead with dip tube

Lager Schedule

My Munich Helles is happily fermenting.  The smell lager yeast puts off is quite interesting…  Nothing like an ale.  The following is the schedule I will be using.  It ended up lining up perfectly with my next homebrew club (unyha) meeting.

4/12pm – 50 degrees, beer placed in fermentation chamber.
4/17pm – 53 degrees
4/18am – 56 degrees
4/18pm – 59 degrees
4/19am – 62 degrees
4/19pm – 65 degrees
4/23am – 60 degrees
4/23pm – 55 degrees
4/24am – 50 degrees
4/24pm – 45 degrees
4/25am – 40 degrees
4/25pm – 35 degrees
4/26am – 30 degrees
4/30 – Rack to keg @ 10.5psi
5/7 – Ready to serve

HERMS Coil and other SS components

I ordered at 50’x12.5″ coil of 1/2″ stainless steel for my HERMS coil. I also ordered the camlocks and some other random stainless fittings.

herms_coilfemale_cam

Stainlessbrewing.com
1x 50’x1/2″ OD 12.5″ diameter SS coil with two 90 degree bends
10x 1/2″ High Flow Type C Camlock
1x Type A Camlock
11x Type F Camlock
2x 1/2″ SS Hex Nipple
3x 1/2″ SS Tee

False bottom and valves

I ordered one of Jaybird’s (norcalbrewingsolutions) great false bottoms.  I will share pictures when it arrives.  He was also running a great sale so I  ordered the eight ball valves I will need.  I went with the three piece design.  Although I do not think they are necessary they allow for more flexible arraignment of the valve handle when using the 90 degree ELBarb bulkheads as dip tubes for the hot liquor tank and boil kettle.

20_Gallon_False_Bottom_Top_View 3-Pc_Ball_Valve

NorCalBrewingSolutions.com
1x 18″ 20 gallon Spike Brewing kettle false bottom with handle
8x Three piece SS 1/2″ ball valve

First try at a lager

I am going to attempt my first lager.  It will be a Munich Helles.  I am using Wyeast 2308 “Munich Lager”.  I am doing my first step up starter.  I used the calculator on brewersfriend.  Using a manufacture date of 3/14 and two 1.5L steps I should end up with 458 million cells and a pitch rate of 1.74M cells / mL / °P for 5.5 gallons.   I am also going to try an interesting fast lager method from brulosophy.  If it works nicely it will make my lager and ale fermentation times nearly the same.  My tap water profile looks good for this beer, it would be nice if it was softer but I think I am close enough.

Target OG = 1.051
Target FG = 1.010
Target IBU = 20
Target ABV= 5.3%

95% German Pilsner (Best Malz)
3% Munich (Best Malz)
1% Biscut Malt
1% Melanoiden Malt
Hallertauer Mittelfrueh used for first wart hops to hit about 20 IBUs
Wyeast 2308 Munich lager yeast

Mash at 154 for 60 minutes
Boil for 90 minutes

Source

4/3/2014 – Starter Step 1 (1.5L & 150g DME)
4/5/2014 – Cool starter
4/6/2014 – Starter Step 2 (1.5L & 150g DME)
4/8/2014 – Cool starter
4/12/2014 – Brew day, fermentation chamber set at 50 degrees

Power!

Ordered the parts needed to build the power cables for the elements. Two L6-30 plugs some 10/3 wire and some cable and heat shrink wrap to make it look good.

l6-30plug

Amazon.com
2x NEMA L6-30P plug
1x 25′ Coleman 10/3 bulk wire
1x 4′ 3M 3/4″ heat shrink tubing
1x 25′ Flexo PET 1/2″ Braided Cable Sleeve, Black